Description (Click to toggle Visibility)
After the Corvette C6 comes another mod from Siim and Niels: the
Toyota Supra MKIV!
This iconic Japanese car comes in two flavours, a 220hp normally aspirated one and a 320hp twin turbo. There are some styling upgrades such as rims available but the performance is bone stock. We aim to model the cars as they originally left the factory, before nasty body kits and ugly exhausts messed with the looks, and large mega lag turbos messed with the pure handling. The only performance tweaks are the optional rear wing, affecting aerodynamics, and the 220hp version can
be fitted with a limited slip differential.
Also, the mod features customized shaders (light flares for example) that attempt to boost the visual quality of the old rFactor graphics engine.
Special thanks to Racing Line Developments allowing us to use sounds
from the pacecar (a Supra!) in their CARTFactor mod!
Known issues/bugs:
* DX7/DX8 mode is not recommended (although mod works...)
* For best graphics experience it is recommended to run this mod with all rFactor gfx settings maxed (duh!).
I downloaded this mod and the Toyota Supra doesnt have any engine sound.
It makes the brake squealing sound but it doesn't have any engine sound at all??
Can someone please help me try fix this??
Thankyou =)
by Woggster on 08-Feb-10
If i remember well there's a readme file or something like that coming with the mod with some recommended settings fpr realfeel. And 900° of course.
by Maug on 04-Feb-10
Im using a G25.
I had issues with no feedback with the realfeel option. Downloading realfeel plugin. Works now. What feedback setting in the rfactor options menu should i be using and what steering degrees setting is closest to the real thing.
by zeggawong on 03-Feb-10
Felt like driving a real-life turbocharged coupe. 5 stars at all, great mod.
by JorgeAbujamra on 02-Feb-10
@ Seven Smiles......Yeah I checked out ur replay. Try changing around 6200rpm instead of 6800rpm and lift when u change. Ur redlining it every gear and not lifting so it is jumping to 7200rpm for about 300ms when u change and that is what is killing ur engine so fast. I noticed the blue supra without a door hahahah funny shit. Lifetime Engine RPM on the standard RZ engine is 5600rpm so ur going well beyond that. The more u go above that, the shorter the life of the engine will be. If u raise the "LifetimeEngineRPM" in the engine file u will get longer engine life BUT that may create MisMatches online. I just suggest changing earlier and lifting when u change.
by Grimm Reaper on 30-Jan-10
@ Seven Smiles It's never a good idea to "flat change" (shift without lifting the throttle). Some less realistic mods can handle it but I have still never killed an engine yet. Even when in the process of making my upgrades for it I boosted the power quite a bit and didn't adjust rev limit or temp optimums or engine cooling. U must be redlining it pretty bad to make that blow so quick. I'll watch ur replay l8r.
by Grimm Reaper on 29-Jan-10
Checking the Oesterreich70 again MoTeC shows 6727 rpm spikes when I change up and the limit is 6700 - do you have to lift the throttle in this car? I've got out of the habit since I stopped racing GPL. I've uploaded the replay to http://rapidshare.com/files/34...esterreich70_4.7z.html
by Seven Smiles on 28-Jan-10
Well that is rather strange, barely anyone has reported engine failings. Optimum oil temperature is probably 100c so running at 102 should still not kill the engine..
The engine is very sensitive to overrevving though, it only takes two bad downshifts and overrevving to kill it, but that is intentional.
Still if you're driving cautiously that can't be it either.. If you can post a youtube or replay .. Your telemetry shot shows high but not uber high revs..
I dunno!
by niels007 on 25-Jan-10
I tried a 3rd race, with MOTEC logging on. The driving was pretty erratic but not that bad! The engine temperature just kept climbing until the engine went after 5 laps (540 seconds). MOTEC graph
An Excel graph may be clearer:
link
Running with damage off and on my own most of the time. I don't have any cracks or any other hacking of rF and I've almost never seen an engine blow up otherwise.
I thought it might be something about the nature of the track so I tried Oesterreich70. The temperature didn't rise in the same way (settling around 90 C) but the engine went bang just the same, after 850 seconds.
A bit of a mystery.
by Seven Smiles on 23-Jan-10
I don't see how people can blow the engine. I've been pushing it very hard drifting the car redlining for ages may many times and ruining the tires after a few corners and never blown a single one even in the beta testing. The only thing i see is either a really really awfull driving or the use of a crack. But maybe Niels(or someone else) has another explanation.
by Maug on 22-Jan-10
